The Wheat of Virgin Spaces

There have been several developments since my last post, amongst them a most interesting thread at the Wormwood Society.

Here’s what I think is the way forward:

This debate isn’t (or shouldn’t be) about nationality. It’s about the STYLE of absinthe. Czech-style absinth is made in several countries outside the Czech Republic, including Germany and France. French-style absinthe is made in several countries outside France, including, recently, the Czech Republic.
Quite simply, the category needs to split formally, and permanently in two.

The one category – following in the 19th century Franco-Suisse taste tradition – should be called ABSINTHE. The other category – following the late twentieth century Eastern European style – should be called BOHEMIAN ABSINTH.

“Bohemian” pays tribute both to the Czech origins of this style of absinthe, and also of course to absinthe’s history. It’s a word with very positive connotations for the consumer. Those who make Czech-style absinths would be far better off creating their own category and aggressively marketing it, than trying to piggy-back on the Franco-Swiss tradition - where they will always be at a relative disadvantage (a disadvantage that’s growing all the time, as more high quality French and Swiss producers gear up).

There are many parallels for liquors in the same broad category being produced and marketed under different but similar names:

“Whisky” is made all over the world, but generally denotes a spirit made according to the Scottish tradition. “Whiskey” denotes Irish or American whisky. “Tennessee whisky” denotes a category that undergoes charcoal filtering.

Gin, genever, Plymouth gin are all different categories of what’s broadly the same juniper-flavoured drink.

In none of these cases do consumers regard the one category as inherently “better” than the other. They simply regard them as different, each to be judged on its own merits. Why should absinthe be any different?

“Absinthe”:
1.    Should be at least 45% alcohol, or 90 degrees proof.
2.    Should contain grande wormwood AND anise.
3.    The predominant flavour should be anise, with an underlying wormwood bitterness.
4.    Should also contain at least most of the following herbs: fennel, hyssop, melissa, petite absinthe, peppermint.
5.    Should be natural-looking,in colour.
6.    Should louche – ie turn a milky colour – on the addition of water.

“Bohemian Absinth”:
1.    Should be at least 45% alcohol, or 90 degrees proof.
2.    Should contain grande wormwood. May have a pronounced wormwood-derived bitterness.
3.    May contain other herbs, but these are not essential. Anise, if present at all, should be used sparingly.
4.    “Exotic” colours – blue-green, neon shades, black, red etc all permissable.
5.    Need not louche.